WILLIAMS, Tapaeru; Tivaevae (Ta'orei style)
Tivaevae are a powerful symbol of the art and culture of the Cook Islands and continue to be produced by women outside of the archipelago. Their production functions in a similar manner to that of other cultural objects being made by Pacific Islanders in New Zealand, in that it enables women to continue, as well as innovate, their customary practices. It ensures regular social interaction, and many practitioners form groups that meet regularly in halls or each other's homes to work collectively.
Tivaevae are used extensively in different gifting ceremonies, including weddings, funerals and hair-cutting celebrations, and, because many are considered heirlooms, their sale is not common. Little documentation exists of their introduction to the Cook Islands from Hawaii, but it is believed that the practice was pioneered in the 1820s by women of the London Missionary Society.
Williams's tivaevae is made using the patchwork technique, or ta'orei as it is known in the Cook Island Maori. Small pieces of material are sewn together, and then stitched to form a pattern. Usually the shapes are folded squares, like those in Williams's work, but they can also be triangles or diamonds. Due to their complexity and the amount of material needed, tivaevae ta'orei are not as common as the applique style. Through juxtaposition with other textile works, such as the tifaifai from Tahiti, these brightly coloured expressions of culture demonstrate the intricate links that exist within Polynesian women's art practice.